The Tatsis family history dates back to the Ottoman empire, when his family arrived to Greece from eastern Romylia in 1924. “During the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire and the forced population exchanges in 1924 our grandparents came from Ano Vodeno in Eastern Romylia.” Periklis explains that his people were always grape growers and winemakers . When they moved to Greece they settled in Goumenissa, an area that was covered in natural vine. Today the brother s personally handle the domaine, Periklis works the land and oversees the vines, with Stergios in charge of making the wine although the lines often blur with a family endeavor. The Tatsis brothers belong to a small group of pioneering winemakers who in the 1990s started making mild intervention wines in Greece. The application of the principles of biodynamic cultivation, were aiming at a healthy and full of life ecosystem. They claim that they do nothing less or more than what their grandparents in the historic wine-growing area of Goumenissa taught them.
The domaine has never used commercial yeast, enzymes or other formulations, and sulfites are an endangered species. The wines enjoy the time they need without ever being pushed to market quickly. Inside the winery, time moves slowly with all the beneficial effect it has on the wines. The term “natural wines” and the commercialization it has received does not fit the philosophy of the Tatsis brothers at all. The Tatsis brothers speak of “real wines” made with passion, love, care and patience that bear as a signature their beliefs.
The wines have organic certification with many biodynamic principals applied. The farming Philosophy of the Tatsis family, can easily be seen as traditionalist in nature but that would be only a part of the story. They constantly experiment, doing long macerations of their native white varieties and long élevage for roses. They observe and listen to the needs of the certified organic vineyard, without ever interfering with violent practices on the plants. They are both throwback relaxed as well as in the forefront of the wine scene in Greece.
The Tatsis brothers produce this excellent dry Roditis from their biodynamically cultivated vineyards in Goumenissa. The extra depth and complexity to the wine is given through the biodynamical cultivation, from the enhanced with mineral dimension reminiscent of chalk. Fermentation is done with wild yeasts, remaining for 8 months in contact with the lees in tanks.
Ripe lemon, light lovely gentle oxidation reminiscent of nuts and a very elegant palate with accentuated acidity but also volume.
Paired with Pho, pad thai, hummus, fresh oyster, smoked fish and fish roe.
The wine Goumenissa is complex in its characteristics, edgy with a wild, unruly side and the energy of the Xinomavro energy makes the mouth come alive.
The colour slightly brick-like. It has something of red forest fruits, spicy spices, tomato vegetality and raw leather. Special, complex, spontaneous, full of energy. A mix between something refined and something more raw. It will age superbly for well over a decade, opening up and displaying an even more complex, earthy mouthfeel.
Limnio is from the limnio grape, and is considered amongst the oldest grape varieties in Europe being around for centuries . It has a fresh acidity and has a finesses in the mouth reminiscent of lace. They use native yeasts, without sulphites and without interventions such as filtering or clarification. Elegant aromatics, cool red fruit and Mediterranean herbs. Very sophisticated in the mouth, with skillful and soft tannins and significant freshness. Sulfur-free and with a “natural” finish reminiscent of the fruit of fresh almonds.
With the Malagousia, before the start of alcoholic fermentation, there is a short period of contact with the skins for a few hours and then the wine is fermented with native yeasts at a controlled temperature. It will be worked with the lees for about a month and a half slightly increasing the complexity levels of the wine. Tatsis brothers Malagousia is a very aromatic wine, mature and fruity with a rich texture and tannins in the mouth. A medium body, crisp acidity, and a slightly oily texture, slight honey note accompanies the fruit aromas reminiscent of peach, quince, kumquat, bergamot and apples.
Pairs nicely with curry shrimps, a green salad with roasted peaches & soft cheese,risotto with spinach & feta cheese
The orange version of Malagousia is very perplexed, with the level of enjoyment for the consumer rise dramatically. The extraction takes place in open tanks at the winery and lasts thirty days. The wine is then matured in old oak barrels for eighteen months before being released cloudy, unfiltered and unsulphured on the market. The color is dark orange and it has aromas of orange peel, candied rose and strong dry oxidizing elements. The mouth is dry, with huge structure, tannins, appetizing bitterness and fruit that you can almost chew due to its concentration. Its aromatic character is reminiscent of citrus peels, candied ripe fruit and has a dizzying almost florality found in sweet Muscats. Immersive long aftertaste with very intense fresh almond in the finish.
Pairs with pumpkin soup with Moroccan spices, ginger and yogurt, chicken satay, or octopus with honey and balsamic
Looking at its color it is difficult to label it as a white or even as a pale pink. It is distinct, full of personality and of versatile character, it is the blanc de noir vinification of Xinomavros but also the non-interventionist philosophy of the Tatsis brothers who do not filter the color of the wine. The added biodynamic practices of the vineyard give way to gentle “natural” vinification in the cellar. After the grape has been destemmed, the grapes are very gently pressed, with only 30% of the free-flowing juice being quickly removed so as not to pick up any coloring or other phenolic components of the grapes. Fermentation is slow, spontaneous at a controlled temperature and the wine remains in contact with the lees for about a year. No intervention or discoloration is done and filtering follows.
Smooth and rich, with the lively refreshing acidity and light tannins as expected from a Xinomavro and complexity that comes through nuts, herbs and candied fruit. Rich and aromatic, with notes of orange peel and citrus blossom, candied quince and a complex mouth full of toast, honey and smoke.
Pairs nicely with stuffed vegetables, chicken with orzo and tomato sauce, or linguine with sun-dried tomato pesto.
Not wanting to make a plain retsina, together with the resin, they decided to extract the skins, producing an “orange” resin without interventions. An authentic approach to the more traditional style of Greek wine. Orange, cloudy and explosive on the nose, almost “primitive”.