Iliana Malihin, an individual with both attitude and devotion to her crusade, the revival of ancient Vidiano in the area of Melambes, Rethymno Crete. The area is known for forgotten vines at 600 to 900m altitude. Assisting her on this journey is talented Syros Chryssos, one of the largest landowners of Santorinies Louros. The result of this search, is the production of two wines with the Vidiano variety. Vidiano old vines comes from a rare vineyard of 90-140+ years old that was preserved by the vintners of the area, while Vidiano young vines is a blend of three different vineyards whose age does not exceed 15 years. On the one hand, the old vines express the charm of the vineyard’s maturity by giving dense fruit, complexity and depth to the wine. On the other hand, the contrast of the young vines comes through the tensions, liveliness and expressiveness of the aromas of youth. Two wines from the same variety and the same region that can and do express themselves so differently.
All of the vineyards are un-grafted, between the ages of 5-200 years old, farmed “naturally”, meaning no chemical inputs, and much of the work is done by hand and horse. In the cellar, Iliana’s focus is capturing the unique value of each site, with indigenous yeast, aged in tank for 6-12 months, unfined, unfiltered and a very low sulfur regimen. The resulting wines are purely mineralic in composition. It’s an incredible feat that wines from such sunny locales (although very cold at night, helping retain acidity), have such a stunning soil-to-glass transfer.
Old vines
The vineyard aged between 90 and 140 years old rises at an altitude of 740-800m. With only 1375 bottles, its very unique in its kind. Iliana tries to minimize the interventions to highlight the potential of the old vineyards. No frills, but full-bodied and rich, with charming ripe fruit along with multiple aromatic nuances. But everything is in balance, It is as if the wine carries the “wisdom” of its old trunks. The Vidiano old vines remained for almost a year in contact with the fine lees and was vinified with spontaneous yeasts. Sulfite levels remained very low.
Young vines
Vidiano Young Vines, 5-15 years old, is grown at an altitude of 650 meters with strictly organic farming. The harvest is done by hand and then the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks with the ambient yeasts that Iliana has isolated. The wine ages for 6 months with its fine wine lees acquiring an oily, creamy texture. In the glass, a highly energetic and textured white wine emerges: You’ll uncover high-toned notes of fleshy white peach, green pear, apricot skin, chamomile, citrus leaf, beeswax, salt-preserved lemon, dried scrub, melon peel, and a hint of herbs.
Rizes is an optimistic message for the future of Greek wine. It’s a combination of two varieties, from 2 islands, from 2 rare and prophylloxeric vineyards. A unique blend; 65% Vidiano from Fourfouras Crete (pre-phylloxera vines around 80 years old) and 35% Assyrtiko from the extreme, Louros terroir, in Santorini. Vidiano and Assyrtiko are firstly vinified separately in stainless steel tanks, fermentation is spontaneous and sulphites are kept at very low levels. The aim is to clearly capture the different terroirs. In the glass it has a smokey, honeyed, tropical fruit character that is followed by a texturally friendly palate, with no edges, integrated acid and good, rather warm, finish with an alcohol of 14.5% abv. Think sweet peach, apricot, and tropical pineapple. Equally rich and fatty in the mouth, with notes of biscuit but also penetrating acidity that breathes new life into the wine and enlivens it It is a forward and charming wine that could improve with a couple of years of cellaring. 2000 bottles of total production. Pairs well with Shellfish, crab & lobster.
Liatiko is the most characteristic variety of the Cretan vineyard. Soft with an unstable color, this red wine has a slightly rustic character, tannins gradually build in the mouth with a balanced acidity but excellent complexity, with notes of dried fruits and mediterranean herb that will captivate you. For the vinfication the grapes are pressed after removing 90% of stems. The wine is fermented with Indigenous yeasts at 22°C. 50% of fermentation is done in stainless steel tanks, whilst the remaining 50% in 3rd use barrels for 8 months. During maturation, Cretan music is played for the wine, a vital step in the vinification process in the region. The wine remains unfiltered and is bottled with very low sulphite use.
Pairs well with light fish dishes and pasta, or by itself.
Liatiko Rose is a low-intervention culinary rosé with beautiful fruit reminiscent of cherry and plums and a mouth with mild tannins and the tartness of grapefruit on the aftertaste to balance the sweetness of the fruit. For its vinification, 80% of the wine was extracted for 5 hours, while the remaining 20% was left in contact with the skins for two days. The wine is fermented with Indigenous yeasts at 22°C. Ripening is done staying with wine lees for 8 months in stainless tanks. Minimal sulphides, no sticking and staying for 8 months with the lees gave substance, structure and depth.
Pairs well with dishes such as stuffed, chicken with okra, beans and many dishes of the Mediterranean cuisine.
As with Liatiko, Thrapsathiri, follows the logic of minimal interventions, which is bursting with Mediterranean herbs, dense fruit and the soft, rich but not heavy character of the variety. The Cretan vineyard gives the most Mediterranean style, with a unique honey texture in the mouth.
The Thrapsathiri grapes are hand-picked from vineyards in the region of Melampes. The grapes are pressed after destemming and vinified using long extraction with spontaneous fermentation on with the fine lees to enhance the richness of the variety wild yeast at 20°C. Similar to her Liatiko variety, 10% are matured in old, 3rd use-barrels for 8 months and then 9 months in the bottle. During maturation, Cretan music is played for the wine. It is bottled without filtration and with very low sulphite use. Sulphites are very low and the wine remains in contact.
Iliana Malihin’s Thrapsathiri is a light, crisp, refreshing white with a floral note and a beautifully balanced acidity. Perfect for pairing with food like light fish dishes or pasta, or drinking by itself in the sun, for a little taste of Crete.
Malihin’s Lefkos, a wine made from the blend of Vidiano and Thrapsathiri from vineyards at altitudes between 600-900m. The vines are a mix of younger 10 year old vines with century 100 year old vines. Iliana Malihin’s classic – non-interventional – vinification with indigenous yeasts, minimal sulphides and without fining or filtering give a wine with character. Fermentation at 20 °C in stainless steel tanks for 8 months, in contact with the lees that help the volume of the wine and increase its levels of complexity.
The combination of the two varieties gives a wine with a nice thickness and volume in the mouth that highlights, it has crisp and lively fruit flavor.